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Why do we go to coffee shops? It’s not just for the hot drinks | Emma Beddington

Starbucks wants people to stop hanging out in its US branches without buying anything. But sometimes we all need somewhere to sit that isn’t homeThere has been a kerfuffle about cafes recently. In the US, Starbucks’ new “Coffeehouse Code of Conduct” is making people buy something or leave, reversing its previous laid-back attitude. Meanwhile, in Paris, cultural barricades are being raised between trad cafes and the kind that sell €5 almond milk cortados. The New York Times last month set out the “zinc bar v barista” philosophical divide between classic community hubs and hipster roasteries in the city, while a Parisienne on TikTok has posted a video pointing out three new-gen coffee shops within 50 metres of each other in the Marais, explaining that French people “take our time to have a coffee we sit on a terrace”, but now “les Américains” are demanding takeaway americanos.This is about what cafes are for – and the answer has always been more than coffee. Seventeenth-century coffee...


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